Most players like to have a comfortable beeswax mouthpiece on their didj. In this section, I will describe two popular methods. Excuse the unpoetic licence that I took in naming them, but I think that this is at least clear. The one thing that you will obviously need for both of these methods is beeswax ! See the note on where to get beeswax.
The Melt and Dip Method
This method requires the use of a double boiler. Those of you who cook will know the concept (Mmmmm chocolate!). The idea is to use two containers. One larger one, in which you will boil water, and a smaller one (which you don't mind ruining) which will contain the wax. A good idea for the small container is a cleaned out catfood can. Place a block of beeswax in the catfood can, and float/place this into the saucepan of boiling water. If all goes well, you'll end up with a catfood can filled with molted wax. You don't want to put the wax on direct high heat because it tends to blacken and burn.
Once you have a can full of molten wax, you dip and remove the didj from the wax, each time building up the wax mouthpiece. I have heard that some people turn the didj slowly as they remove it, helping the building process. Another thing that I have seen is a deep initial dipping (a few centimeters) which helps to seal the inside of the mouth end of the didj which gets the most amount of moisture. This is supposed to help prevent cracking due to expansion and contraction resulting from repeated wetting and drying inherent in didj playing.
The Softened Wax Moulding Method
Similar to the way in which the melt-and-dip method returns you to the kitchen, this method will return you to your childhood (or ceramics class).
Cut strips of beeswax from your wax block. These strips should be around half a centimeter in thickness. Warm these strips by rubbing them in your hands, in hot water, using a hairdrier, near a lamp etc. Once the wax is soft and easily workable, roll the wax in your hands to make a snake (childhood returns). Make sure the snake is the same thickness all along. Keep rolling the snake until the length is the same as the circumference of the pipe to which you will add it. Join the ends to make a circle, and then work this wax ring on to the didj mouthpiece. As the wax is soft and malleable, it should be easy to make a comfortable fit. As the wax cools, it will of course harden.
Didjeridu's With No Wax On The Mouthpiece
Some players prefer to have no wax at all on their wooden didj mouthpieces. They play the didj "raw," that is with no beeswax added - just lips on wood.
Of course it's not always possible to have a didj with a perfectly sized mouthpiece opening, since this is determined by the tree ! If the opening is too large, then there's no choice but to add wax. In the case when the opening is just right (or slightly smaller), a little bit of smoothing work with a rasp is all that is needed to make a comfortable mouthpiece.
David Hudson uses this method. Most of his didj'es are "raw". Since he makes his own didj's, he can pick and choose what wood he'll take, thus avoiding the size problem. He then shapes the mouthpiece with a rasp so that it fits his mouth perfectly. This way he ensures a perfect fit.
There's a really good reason why David prefers this method. He explains how when you have a wax mouthpiece and a friend wants to play your didj, the first thing that happens is that the mouthpiece gets modified to suit your friend. Once the friend is finished playing and returns the didj, you find that your perfect mouthpiece no longer fits! The Solution ? Make a mouthpiece that you can't modify.
This may sound a bit extreme, since beeswax is pretty hard. Remember though that the Aborigine players use the wonderful, intoxicatingly fragrant wax produced by the Australian "sugarback," a small stingless bee, for their mouthpieces. This wax is almost black in colour, and is much more malleable than regular beeswax at room temperature. The reason why we don't see much of this stuff around is that it is very hard to obtain, and is thus used very sparingly.
Other Ideas and Suggestions
Guy Brown has this to say:"A mouthpiece building technique I was told about, but have not tried, is to use dentist's moulding medium (they use this for taking impressions of teeth). Evidently this is expensive, but can be moulded to fit the shape of your mouth and then sets very hard and is very durable. I understand that Graham Wiggins (alias Dr. Didg) uses this technique."Graham Wiggins (Dr. Didg)actually says:
I have indeed found that dental putty is an excellent material for mouthpieces. The stuff I use is called Polysiloxane Registration Material and must be purchased through a dentist or dental supply house. It comes in two tubs and when you mix it together it sets to become like rubber. It is better than beeswax because it doesn't stick to your face, give you pimples or change shape as it gets warm, and it is nicer to your face than going "bareback" with just the wood. However it is expensive (about 100 dollars for two tubs, enough to make 10 or 20 mouthpieces) and it is a bit hard to use. It is designed to set very quickly (30 seconds for one kind, 2 minutes for another type) which doesn't give you much time to shape it. One secret I worked out is that if you keep the stuff in the refridgerator and run cold water over your hands before making a mouthpiece it buys you some extra time.Wolf Klauschie adds:
It should be noted that there are many different brands and types of vinyl polysiloxane impression material, with different properties. To start with, be sure to get putty, not regular body or light body, as they are far too runny to use for mouthpieces. Coltene's Lab Putty is far less expensive than the actual impression putties, but is not intended for use in the mouth; it's probably okay but I wouldn't guarantee it. Otherwise, I would suggest going with the least expensive putty you can find, as the main differences between brands are accuracy and fineness of detail. Note that I haven't actually tried making a mouthpiece this way (I'm happy with wax), but I'm a dental technician and have dealt extensively with the stuff in its normal use.
Injection molded mouthpieces for 1.5 inch ABS pipe
Scott Baker (scd@teleport.com; www.teleport.com/~scd/didge.htm):
had a die made for injection molding ABS plastic mouthpieces which fit 1.5 inch ABS pipe. Anyone interested in purchasing these parts can contact him.
Screw fittings for PVC didj's
Gary Fenstermacher (pigface@zurich.gcomm.com) comments:
"What I found to be simple and easy to make was to just use a screw fitting for my PVC didj. Just bring the end down to 1.5", then get the piece that goes from 1.5" to 1.25" with a thredded end. That 1.25" works just fine for me. No work involved, its cheap, and available right there with the PVC. I suppose using beeswax or whatever will be better in the long run, but if you're just starting this is just as good."
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