How to make a didgeridoo?

Making Your Own Wood Didjeridu

By Ray Fuller, (El Rayo)

Fitted Edge Construction

Introduction:
This method comes from the techniques use to build Cedar Strip Canoes and hand built Bamboo Fly Rods. In order to utilize this method you need access to a saw with which to cut strips of the required thickness and a method of tapering each strip so that the each strip is about twice as wide on the Bell end as on the Mouth end. You will cut a number of long (39 plus inches depending on the pitch of the finished Didj), strip of wood which will be glued together side by side around a mandrel.

Technique:
Create a mandrel. Obtain two or three threaded rods. 5/8 or 1/2 inch rods will form a sturdy mandrel which does not bend very much. You will want about six feet of total rod to build a five foot long Didj. Join the rods using threaded rod couplers. These are elongated nuts into which the ends of rods will screw. Determine the circumference of the mouth end and the bell end (I use 3 in bell and 1 1/2 mouth) and cut a wooden disk.

The Didj can also be constructed with Bell and Mouth ends of the same size. If you prefer a wide mouthpiece cut the mouth end disk in an elliptical shape instead of round. A starting point for a wide mouthpiece may be to wet your lips and press them to the wood to get an idea for the initial shape. When you have your disks cut out, drill a hole in the center of the scrap wood disks and attach each to rod about 6 in. from the ends using a washer and nut on each side to hold the disk firmly in place. The 6 in. pieces of extended rod are used to mount the mandrel in a cradle which will allow working space all of the way around the Didj.

The cradle is an 8 ft 2x4 with two uprights about 6 in. tall with notches cut in the end to hold the threaded rod and then attached to the base. Attach two wood strips or strings between these two pieces on opposite sides of the disk from each other. At approximately the center measure across and use these measurements to create a third disk to be attached at approximately the center of the rod. This will be the mandrel upon which you will assemble the strips to form the Didj.

Using the bell circumference, determine the number (depends on the width of each strip) of the strips necessary to reach around the circumference at the bell. Divide the number of strips into the mouth circumference to determine the width at the mouth end of each strip. Lay out these measurement on each strip in preparation for cutting the tapers. Using a saw (band-saw works best) cut the tapers one on each side of each strip. This sounds like a, forever task, but you will only be working with between 8 to 12 strips (depending on the width). The results will be a number of elongated triangular strips which are about 1/2 half as wide on the Mouth end as on the Bell end.

!! If you decide to make the Didj the same size on both the Bell and Mouth ends cutting tapers will not be necessary.

It is possible to create twists and turns in the finished Didj.

Technique:
To produce a straight Didj, be it the same circumference on both ends or large on the Bell end the instruction call for construction of a mandrel with three disks with mounting holes drilled in the center of each disk. If you would prefer a Didj that has a little more "character" containing bends or twists, it will be necessary to create a mandrel which allows for these features.

!! Unless you have fairly developed woodworking skills you may want to consider building your first Didj with both ends the same using this method. This type of Didj requires fewer cuts and a minimal amount of hand fitting. This accomplished you can proceed to flared bells and bent and twisted Didj's.

@ The creation of bends and twist will require more hand fitting of the edges and depending on the severity of the bends it may require steaming of the individual strips in order to complete the bend without breaking. If steam bending is necessary because of the severity of the planned bend(s) it will require the production of steam which can be directed toward the places along the length of the strip to be bent. This can be as simple depending on the severity of the bend as putting on the tea kettle and holding the strip in the steam from the spout.

With all of this in mind, in order to create the necessary mandrel, rather than drilling the holes used to mount the disks directly in the center of the disk, we will offset the holes away from the center. You must visualize where along the length of the finished Didj you wish to produce a bend (or several bends) and the severity of such bends. With this picture in mind a rough sketch may be helpful. If it is your desire to produce a gentle "S" shape, the disks with the offset holes will be mounted on the mandrel with the major portions of the disk on opposite sides of the mandrel from each other.

!! In using this technique it is recommended that you add extra disks to be mounted at the start and finish of each curve. This will help eliminate any flat spots in the finished Didj.

Now comes the only difficult part. As you will have noticed by now, when you lay the strips against the mandrel they will butt against each other at the bottom but will leave a gap at the top. This gap can be filled with a number of materials or you can remove some of the wood at the bottom to allow the entire edge on one strip to fit completely against the edge of the next strip. Hence the name " Fitted Edge". The removal of wood from the bottom of each strip can be done by hand or saw. Hand fitting takes forever. The band-saw works much quicker. Test the angle of the cut on some scrap pieces of strips to achieve the correct angles and then cut all of the strips. There will be some minor hand fitting which can be done with a plane or sandpaper.

!! All of the strips are fitted and laid on the mandrel temporarily before any glue is used. Use elastic or rubber band at the bell and mouth end of the mandrel to hold the strips temporarily in place for fitting.

When all of the pieces are fitted, glue each to the one next to it.

!! Save yourself some trouble by applying a strip of waxed paper or a coating of melted wax to the wood pieces of the mandrel so that the glue use to attach the strips so that they will not stick to the mandrel.

When the glue is dry, sandpaper, decorate and finish the exterior wood prior to the removal from the mandrel. When all of the exterior is finished unscrew the mandrel rod and remove the mandrel.

!! If you have glued the strips directly to the wooden disk on the mandrel, the wooden disk will need to be cut free. Be very careful not to damage the wood strips when cutting the mandrel free.

Finish the interior and then you are ready to "Didj Away". Cedar strip makes an interesting sound, are inexpensive, easy to work, light and smells great. If you decide to attempt the Fitted Edge method of construction you might consider Cedar for at least one project.

I hope these thoughts prove helpful. If anyone has any questions, I can be reached at bonsaii@aol.com
El Rayo



We hope your diy didgeridoo will come out to your satisfaction, but if not, it is still not the end of the world. You can always buy an original aboriginal didgeridoo by visiting our www.ab-original.com.au website. And when you add up all your expenses and time spent on didgeridoo making, you'll find out that we are much cheaper...



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